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GET TO KNOW THE ALBAYZÍN

a microcosm of the Andalusi Granada

By Another Way Of Life

February 19^th, 2021

The Albayzín district of Granada is the best-preserved illustration of a Hispano-Muslim city in the South of Spain. It was largely formed during the Nasrid dynasty, in the 11th C, and the whole barrio was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984.

The district, built on a steep hill opposite the Alhambra, is an exceptional and harmonious blend of Islamic and Christian traditions, which have created a unique and special lifestyle.

The Albayzín is especially famous for its poets, musicians and painters, for its narrow cobbled streets and its dramatic views of the Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada.

HISTORY

The area that later became the Albayzín was first populated by the Iberians, the original inhabitants of the Iberian Peninsula, with dispersed Roman settlements appearing later.

Little is known of its history before the arrival of the Muslim Berbers, so it is assumed that the city was abandoned after the fall of the Roman Empire until the founding of the Zirid Kingdom in 1013, when its Royal Palace was built with defensive walls and important Islamic buildings and temple, one of which was the city's Great Mosque.

The original city descended from what is now the Mirador of San Nicolás to the banks of the River Darró and was populated with luxurious houses and equipped with splendid public baths. During the Nasrid period, the streets were very narrow and the houses were small and clean. It had numerous cisterns, providing clean drinking water brought from far away using a sophisticated system of channels. Some of these aljibes survive to this day. There were also important palaces and houses of the Granada nobility.

After the Conquest by the Catholic Monarchs, the Albaicín was assigned to the Muslims as a place of residence. Other Christian neighbourhoods that originated in the Medina gained prominence and became the new commercial and cultural centre of Granada.

Following several Moorish uprisings, the Christian monarchy expelled all those who practiced the Muslim religion. The uprisings were fomented by zealous Christian priests who sought to eat away at the rights given to the population in the Santa Fe Accords when Granada was surrendered. Mosques were converted into churches and the district populated by Christians after the Moors were finally expelled in 1568.

These Christians often merged many tiny moslem houses into one to house larger families. This gave birth to the carmen a style of house unique to Granada, with a combination of house, garden and allotment enclosed within walls with the house itself open to the gardens. Today these carmens attract prices in the millions of euros.

AMENITIES

The Albayzín is a large neighbourhood of steep streets and steps, whitewashed walls and buildings, and pretty plazas where locals and tourists have drinks and tapas. The city centre of Granada lies at the base of this neighbourhood and is only 10 - 15 minutes walk away or easily accessed by the microbuses (lines C31, C32 and C34) which run every ten minutes..

Granada has its own airport offering some international flights and Malaga airport is only 1 hour and 30 minutes away by car or by direct non-stop buses. There are also very good bus services to and from the Alpujarras, the Sierra Nevada, the coast and cities such as Madrid, Malaga, Seville, Barcelona and Valencia. The train station has a direct fast train service to Barcelona and Madrid.

GASTRONOMY

The Albayzin is, without a doubt, much more than Spanish tapas. Its restaurants, taverns and bars offer not only an exquisite gastronomy, but they also contribute to the neighbourhood's magic and the essence of one of the most beautiful places in the world.

Its Arab-Andalusian cuisine is made up of dishes composed mainly of fresh products from the region married with a variety of spices, nuts and exotic fruits. Some of the local dishes consist of beans with ham, a pot of San Antón, the Sacromonte omelette, Andalusian gazpacho with garlic and remojón.

Some Principal Buildings

Palacio Dar-al-Horra

Dar Al-Horra means 'Home of the Honest'. The fifteenth century Palacio de Dar-al-Horra was the residence of Aixa; she was the mother of the latest Moorish Sultan, Boabdil of Granada.

The Palace is discretely hidden in a narrow alleyway and is one of the last Nasrid buildings from the Moorish period. The atmospheric inner garden with pool and the religious inscriptions carved in plaster work are notable characteristics of the Palace.

After the Alhambra, the Palacio Dar-al-Horra is the most beautiful example in Granada of Moorish art with its beautiful architecture and decor.

Carrera del Darro

Carrera del Darro is one of the oldest streets in Albaycín, which runs along the picturesque River Darro. Characterized by the old charm of Moorish culture, the street is known for its street performances, cafés and scenic views of the Alhambra from below. This is the perfect place for those who want to enjoy shaded parks, fairy-tale-like bridges and a relaxed pace of life, sipping a lemonade in a café. Carrera del Darro is also home to a variety of restaurants specializing in different cuisines.

Restaurante La Porrona

La Porrona restaurant is one of the best places in Albaycín to taste an original paella, also served in a vegetarian version. Situated near the Church of San Salvador, from the restaurant customers have a stunning view of the Alhambra. The restaurant is known for its relaxed Andalusian ambiance and its popular live music performances by local musicians. The decorations portraying local flamenco dancers give the whole place an additional authentic look. This is a perfect place for those in search of authentic Spanish culture.

Plaza Larga

Plaza Larga is the most vibrant square in Albaycín, characterized by its attractive cobblestone paving which holds the vegetable and fruit market every morning. Saturday morning is the best time to visit this plaza for the chance to explore the city’s flower market. The streets glow with pink, blue and white colors with stalls selling the most exotic flowers and turning the city into a festival of colours. Plaza Larga also has a growing culinary culture with many restaurants and cafés serving delicious tapas with original Arabic touches.

Café Lara

Café Lara tops other destinations in Albaycín in terms of classic Andalusian cuisine. This is a good place to enjoy afternoon siesta indulging the palate with typical Andalusian dishes like crisp quarters of iceberg lettuce tossed in roasted garlic, grilled whole peppers sprinkled with sea salt, and softly tender black sausages oozing with rich flavor. A quiet ambiance and great service complement the enjoyable dining experience.

Iglesia de San Nicolás

The sixteenth century church of San Nicolás is situated in the heart of the Albaycín and well worth getting to it just to be able to experience the most spectacular view of the Alhambra. Admired by many travellers and frequently depicted on paintings, this stunning romantic view has the power to make an imprint on the soul of every visitor.

FESTIVALS

If there's one thing that Spaniards know how to do it's throwing a great party. Like in all Spanish cities, Granada's calendar is chock-full with a wide range of celebrations and arts festivals. In fact, no matter when you are in Granada, you're sure to run into a film series, a religious procession, a flamenco festival... and that's just the beginning of it!

Fiesta de la Toma

Celebrated on the 2nd January to commemorate the day that the Catholic Monarchs libertaed Granada in 1492. Festivities include a colourful procession festuring fifteenth century period costumes, the raising of the Monarch's banner at the Town Hall, and hoards of young people scrambling up the Alhambra's Torre de la Vela to ring its bell.

Fiestival del Albayzín

Celebrated on the 29th June, like a scene straight out of the past, pilgrims in traditional garb arrive on horses and in horse-carriages to the Albaycín's Ermita de San Miguel (San Miguel chapel).

Aniversario de Mariana Pineda

Celebrated on the 25th May, outdoor dancing and a variety of cultural events mark the anniversary of the death of Granada's young political heroine, Mariana Pineda. She was imprisoned and killed for her liberal beliefs, for conspiracy against the ultra-conservative government, and for her refusal to name her fellow liberal "conspirators."

POPULATION

Granada remains a mid-sized town (approx. 235,000 inhabitants) that one can walk the length of, though the city transit system is so easy, regular, and accessible, it is second to none. Everyone uses it, which makes it both convenient transportation and a social meet-up. The buses are convenient for transferring from the inner city (red) lines to the regional (green) lines to get out of town on a moment’s whim.

Taking a cue from the city’s emphasis on cultural fusion, the expat community is a thorough mix of people from all over who regularly gather with each other and locals, united in a common goal of intermixing cultures rather than standing apart. There are constant meetups, from hiking, to biking, to Spanish language development over wine & tapas.

CLIMATE

The climate and weather of Granada justify why so many people have come to live here. Set at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountains, there is low humidity, so that most days affords opportunity to be comfortable walking about. Winters can have a chill, but snow rarely lasts in town for more than a day. The hot summers remain dry and humidity-free, nothing that a shaded café and a cold tinto de verano (iced summer wine) can’t counter.

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